As part of a trip to London I put a call out on the 'Strangers Room' Facebook page for the best Sherlockian "things" to do with 6 hours spare in London. I received a wide range of responses, including a few that are sadly no longer possible (or at least not right now) because they are closed:
- Eat at Simpson’s on the Strand: this is closed, but reopening soon
- Take a Sherlock walking tour: not available at the moment
- Visit ACD’s portrait at the National Portrait Gallery: Portrait Gallery is currently closed for major renovations.
- Visit the Criterion Bar: now closed
But there were of course many suggestions that could be actioned, and other opportunities to experience Sherlockian London. This isn't that difficult given that Holmes, with and without Watson, charged all over London and up and down the Thames.
"221B Baker Street" viewed from across the street. This view certainly allows a sense of the general residences. Based on recommendations, I did NOT visit the museum (and therefore did not visit the gift store).
Looking at the building across from 221B, we can see where Col. Sebastian Moran positioned himself in 'The Adventure of the Empty House' - all that Sherlockian debate and I just had to visit the street ;) In all seriousness though - Baker Street is quite wide and it would have required an exceptional shot to shoot from one side to the other.
Next, the entrance to Baker Street Station (the Underground/tube station) is just around the corner on Marylebone Rd. This is of course where Sherlock would have headed to when using the tube. It is the oldest underground station in London, opening in 1863.
Outside the Baker Street tube station is a statue of Sherlock Holmes! This statue was created by John Doubleday, and dedicated in 1999. Pipe in hand, and deerstalker on head, Sherlock watches over the entrance to the station. There is an excellent article (short book really!) on Sherlock Holmes statues by Howard Ostrom that can be accessed here: www.nplh.co.uk/sherlock-statues.html
There is text on three sides of the statue base.
"The Great Detective"
A little awkwardly put: "221b Baker Street the address of Sherlock Holmes is at the original headquarters of Abbey National plc. Sculptor: John Doubleday"
"This statue commissioned by the Sherlock Holmes Society of London was sponsored by Abbey National plc to commemorate it's 150th Anniversary in 1999". It is not clear if it is the Society or Bank celebrating its anniversary and OH MY GOD THERE'S AN APOSTROPHE
Next on my list, and directly across the road from the British Museum main entrance, was the Museum Tavern. This is accepted as the true location of the Alpha Inn of goose club fame in 'The Blue Carbuncle'.
The Museum Tavern certainly recognizes the wonderful canonical connection, with a photograph of Arthur Conan Doyle hanging aside a framed copy of the 'Blue Carbuncle' with the statement "The Museum Tavern is familiar to those who read Sherlock Holmes. In 'The Case of the Blue Carbuncle' it appears as the 'Alpha Inn'".
I took the opportunity for a meat pie and beer in the main bar room. While there I read the ACD short story 'The Case of Lady Sannox' in preparation for an upcoming meeting of the Bimetallic Question 'All of Doyle' discussion group. Definitely a group worth joining: www.bimetallicquestion.org
"When I first came up to London I had rooms in Montague Street, just round the corner from the British Museum". Just along the way from the Alpha Inn is Montague Street (running along one side of the British Museum) - and peering down Montague Street one can see this wonderful row of homes where Sherlock took his rooms.
Speaking of beer, I also walked down to the 'Sherlock Holmes Pub' for a couple of beers. There were some Sherlock Holmes paraphernalia framed on the walls downstairs, though the true connection to Sherlock Holmes is a little tenuous.
I took the chance to walk over to 'St Bart's' (St Bartholomew's Hospital) where Sherlock Holmes and John Watson first met. One can easily imagine both men passing through the old gates and doors. The museum itself was closed, and there is a notice saying that it will not re-open for some time.
Finally, through a twist of hotel-booking disasters, I was moved to a different hotel - and it turned out the be 'Great Scotland Yard' !! This newly renovated hotel occupies buildings on the site of the Scotland Yard police station (not 'New Scotland Yard'). Recognizing the importance of the connection, the hotel has a range of historical London police memorabilia framed around the walls of the main floor. I could not find a specific shout-out for Sherlock, Watson, Lestrade, Gregson, or anyone else for that matter, but the setting was delightful.
Thank you to the following members of the 'Stranger's Room' who provided suggestions to me - I actioned as many of them as were possible given openings, closings, and renovations: Marjorie Tucker, Alistair Duncan, Robert Stek, Heather Owen, Michael Duke, iHOSE, Patricia Bohnke, Christopher Todd, Carla Kessinger Coupe, Lauren Rosales-Shepard, Tom Francis, Jim Ballinger, Rudy Altergott, Susan Dahlinger, Julie McKuras, Joshua Harvey, Tom Fahres, Steve Mason, Edith Pounden, Howard Ostrom, Jacuelynn Bost Morris, and Heather Owen.